Tools
- Wedged mauls
- A typical wood splitting has a weight of 6 to 8 lb or approximately 2.7 to 3.6 kg, respectively. Traditionally, they have a wedge -shaped head, but some modern versions have conicalheads or swiveling sub-wedges. The original maul resembles an axis but with a broader head. For splitting wood, this tool is much better than a typical axis. The weight of it is more important and less expensive, it is less likely to become stuck in the wood. The wedge section of the head must be slightly concave-section that can be concave-sectioned. Unlike an axis, maul handles are normally straight and closer to the elongated oval axis handles tend to be. A maul’s handle, unlike an axis, is intentionally used for levering and swinging. The handles are typically made from hickory, though synthetic fiberglass handles have become common. Plastic handles are more difficult to break and their factory-attached heads are less likely to work with the lifting action of a maul. In the early 1970s a triangular head design with an unbreakable metal handle was introduced called “Monster Maul.”
- Separate wedges
- Splitting can also be done with a separate wedge and a large hammer. As this allows several wedges to be used together, To avoid mushrooming the head of the wedge, they are driven to a heavy wooden mallet rather than an iron hammer. In parts of England the word “maul” denotes this tool with a very heavy wooden head. It is also known as a beetle; There is a River Thames at Moulsford called the Beetle and Wedge .
- Powered log splitters
- Hydraulic log splitters are commonly used today. They can be horizontal or vertical.
Techniques
The maul is most commonly struck to a flush-cut section of log, usually standing on end at a splitting stump or other suitable basis. Most cut sections can be split into a single downward chop of the maul, splitting the wood apart along its grain. Mauls regularly becomes stuck in the log for one of several reasons, such as the wood not being struck with adequate force, the wood containing hidden knots, or the length of wood being too long. Unlike an axis mauls are effective after-along the edge dulls, as the primary mechanism Is That of a wedge through Pushed along the wood grain, and not a cross-grain chop of an axis. In some cases, they can be split while they are still length-wise on the base or ground. Mauls often become stuck in a mid-split request for “full-lift” chop to be used. This involves the chopper reswinging the maul, but this time the half- split log while still attached to the embedded maul, often requires one or two additional full-lift chops. Another technique for splitting upright is the thickness of the thickness of the log, usually removing 1/4 of the mass of the log. When repeated, large logs that would ordinarily cause the maul to be embedded on a center-strike can be handled easily. Additionally, the temperature gets colder, the fibers in the log become easier.
Safety
The hammer side of the maul is often used in wood splitting when combined with a splitting wedge, driving the wedge into the wood in the same fashion as the maul itself. This is used when attempting to split logs with a large diameter. Modern mauls are made of a strong enough steel to withstand the metal-to-metal contact without chipping. However, it is still common for the wedge itself to chip off. This can be dangerous as it can be damaged. This is also the easiest way to break a maul’s handle because the wedge is a whole lot, and can be overshot, resulting in hitting full-force on the wedge. This greatly weakens the handle, and can cause it to break after only a few over-shots.
Harder seasoned logs which are often divided into two parts of each other at a given speed, which is a hazard for people or objects nearby.
A common danger for inexperienced splitters is to miss the upright log entirely or give it to a glancing blow. If the maul lands beyond the log, the maul handles may or bounce or break. If the lands in front of the log, it can hit the feet of the splitter if they are in a closed stance. If the maul hits the side of the log without biting, the maul will usually bounce to one side and to the ground. In this situation, even a widened stance may still leave the splitter’s feet vulnerable.
When performing the “full-lift” chop described above, the splitter must never raise the maul and log above his head.
Generally speaking, a maul should never swing to the side. Rather it should be powered through the drop, using force to assist the natural weight of the maul. In addition to a suitable splitting base is one of the most important components to splitting wood with a maul. Wood can be split directly off the ground, but this is a disadvantage for a few reasons. For one the ground, if not frozen, will give on each blow, thus weakening the overall effect of the blow. The second disadvantage is that it can be broken down into a low level, forcing the person to fall back on the swing, which causes back fatigue. The best bases are flush-cut segments of hardwood logs, usually about one foot tall. For the season, the open grain may be treated slightly.
Another technique to improve safety involves pinning the head of the maul to the handle. Repeated use can loosen the head, and if the wedge or expander fails, the head will fly from the handle. Placing a pin involves drilling a small diameter hole through the side of the maul, and through the handle, and usually out the other side. A small, flush, or counter-sunk pin of aluminum or similar material should be placed in the head and secured. It is critical that the pin protrude from the side of the maul head.
See also
- Firewood
- Froe
- Log Splitter
- Stone axis
References
- The backyard lumberjack By Philbrick Frank, Stephen Philbrick